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How often should my chimney be swept?

The frequency depends on how regularly you use your fire and what type of fuel you burn. As a general guide:

  • Smokeless fuels: At least once annually (they still leave residue despite their name)

  • Wood: Sweep every three months when in regular use

  • House coal: Twice a year

  • Oil-fired systems: Once a year

  • Gas fires: Annually, as part of appliance servicing

If you only use your fire occasionally—for example, during weekends in the colder months—an annual sweep is usually sufficient. For more frequent use, aim to sweep before the start of the burning season and again partway through.

Can a vacuum alone clean my chimney?

No. A vacuum is used to catch soot and dust loosened during the cleaning process, not to do the cleaning itself. Chimney brushes are required to physically scrub the internal surfaces of the flue.

I have a gas fire. Do I still need chimney maintenance?

Yes, especially if you haven’t had it checked recently. Gas fires should be inspected and serviced by a Gas Safe-registered engineer at least once a year. Although they shouldn’t produce soot, obstructions like spider webs can form inside gas flues, restricting airflow and potentially causing carbon monoxide risks. In these cases, sweeping may be essential even without visible debris.

Why does smoke come back into the room?

Smoke blow-back can result from several causes:

  • Blockages: Obstructions like soot, tar, or nests can restrict airflow. A sweep will identify and often remove the problem.

  • Cold chimney: Cold air is denser than smoke and can push it back into the room. Try lighting newspaper first to preheat the flue.

  • Downdraught: External factors like tall trees or nearby buildings may cause short bursts of smoke indoors. A specially designed cowl may help.

  • Neighbouring flue siphoning: In certain wind conditions, smoke may be drawn down a nearby flue. A taller chimney pot or room ventilation might fix this.

  • Lack of ventilation: Modern airtight homes often lack sufficient airflow for a healthy fire. Try opening a window or installing a vent.

  • Fireplace too large: A wide or tall opening may prevent efficient smoke extraction. Using a hood or raising the grate could help.

How can I prevent birds from nesting in my chimney?

The best solution is a purpose-built bird guard, which fits over your chimney pot securely without affecting airflow. Avoid DIY methods like chicken wire, which can block the flue and deteriorate quickly.

Can I sweep my chimney myself?

It’s possible, but not recommended unless you have the proper tools, experience, and containment setup. You'll need correctly sized rods and brushes, and a HEPA-rated vacuum—not a standard household one, which may spread soot and get damaged. Done incorrectly, DIY sweeping can create a serious mess or worse, go unnoticed and unsafe.

Do I need a certificate for my insurance?

Yes. Many insurers require proof that your chimney has been professionally swept. In the event of a chimney fire, this certificate may be necessary to validate any insurance claim.

Do I need a liner to use a stove?

Not in every case. If your chimney is structurally sound, well-sealed, and not overly large, a liner may not be required. However, in older homes or large, unlined chimneys, fitting a liner helps reduce condensation and tar deposits and ensures a safer, more efficient burn.

Why is cold air coming down my chimney?

In summer or milder months, the chimney can cool more than the surrounding air. This reversal in temperature causes warm external air to flow down the flue. To fix this, temporarily block the throat of the chimney or gently heat the fluebefore use to re-establish upward flow.

Should a chimney be swept before being sealed?

Absolutely. If soot remains inside a closed-off chimney, moisture can mix with it to form acidic deposits that seep into the brickwork, potentially causing damp patches and wall stains inside the property.

Can I dry firewood beside my stove?

It’s not advised. Though commonly done, drying wood too close to a hot stove poses a significant fire hazard. Should it catch, the consequences can be devastating—even if flames don’t spread, smoke damage may require a full room refurbishment.

Can I burn unseasoned or damp wood?

Never. Moist wood leads to low heat output, excess smoke, and dangerous tar build-up inside the flue, increasing the risk of chimney fires. Always use seasoned wood with a moisture content below 20%—a moisture meter can help you check this. We read happy to supply a burnright leaflet to help you understand the best way to store and burn wood

Why choose a wood-burning stove over an open fire?

  • Higher efficiency: Wood stoves convert up to 90% of heat into your home, compared to about 20% for open fires

  • Lower fuel use: Less wood is needed for greater warmth

  • Reduced heat loss: Stoves can be sealed when not in use, unlike open fireplaces that allow heat to escape up the flue

  • Cleaner burn: Less smoke, fewer emissions

Can I install a stove if I don’t have a chimney?

Yes. Modern installations can use twin-wall insulated flue systems that run internally or externally, so a chimney is no longer a requirement.

What is vermiculite?

Vermiculite is a heat-resistant mineral board used inside many stoves to protect internal metalwork and improve efficiency. These panels are lightweight, non-combustible, and easy to replace.

How do I look after vermiculite fire bricks?

  • Don’t overload your stove or use over-sized logs

  • Place logs carefully, don’t throw them in

  • Only burn dry, seasoned wood

  • Avoid water or chemical cleaners inside the stove

  • Watch for pink discolouration, which may mean the stove is running too hot

Standard thicknesses are 15mm, 20mm, and 30mm—replace with matching sizes when needed.

Is it safe to book you?

Yes. All our staff hold a current DBS Certificate which can be shown on request.

Frequently Asked Questions